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timeasmymeasure
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Date: 2024-08-23 05:52 pm (UTC)but I have to say I found the sense of presence and absence in this regard to be more unnerving than in any European city I've visited whose previously large Jewish community is no longer present.
Oh, that's interesting. I had that feeling in Krakow, walking through the Jewish quarter where they aren't any Jews anymore, but there are, like, gates with Magen Davids on them and cafes named after Jewish people where (I swear to God) the musicians are playing music from Fiddler on the Roof. It was so disturbing. So I definitely know that feeling.
but all I can say is that I felt this aspect of Vilnius's history should have been more prominent than it was, and the lack of prominence disturbed me.
Yeah. That makes sense. Vilna (as they called it then) really was one of the golden cities of Ashkenazi Jewry and Yiddish culture in general, and it looms really large in the diaspora mind. If I make there, I will be prepared for the uncomfortable tension between presence and absence.